学文网Two simmering tureens were placed in front of me—a devil red broth glistening with sichuan peppercorns ready to numb my tongue and the other, a white chicken stock with vegetables; a veritable yin-yang on a plate. As I slurped (albeit a little warily), I wondered how something that looked so evil could taste so divine. Hong Kong is one of the most pedestrian-friendly cities in the world, as most of what appeals to tourists is squashed into an area less than the size of the suburb of Bandra with the topography of san Francisco—fantastic to work off those holiday calories. Central, soHo and Lang Kwai Fong (LKF) are a maze of alleyways, each with its own personality. Food is omniscient, be it bars on shelly street, noodle soup on wellington or a 10,000 sq ft food hall in Causeway Bay. sticky rice and pork wrapped in lotus leaf or tenderloin at Gaddi’s, this city is treasure house of cuisine. with over 10,000 restaurants, it’s like finding a needle in a heap of noodles.
HEART OF HK
To help you navigate this culinary map, we begin at the heart of Hong Kong, the Central Business District aka ‘Central’, and no itinerary would be complete without a trip to the Maxim’s Palace City Hall. Located right opposite the mandarin oriental is the island’s ode to dumplings. Get there early since you stand in a line very much like a visa queue, waiting for your number to be called. You are then ushered into a large ballroom with arched ceilings, crystal chandeliers and ceiling to floor windows overlooking the Hong Kong harbour. Matronly ladies in aprons are pushing food carts piled high with dim sum steamers and they hand you something akin to a Tambola card that will be punched every time something gets placed on your table—we came close to a ‘full house’. Take your pick from Steamed Rib with Black Bean Sauce, Shrimp Dumplings with Soy Sauce, Flushed Pink Shrimp in Chili, Sticky Rice and Meat Wrapped in Lotus Leaves, or just the classic spring roll. There’s loads more. with it’s silver cutlery and white tablecloths, maxim’s feels like a dumpling tea room from a yesteryear merchant ivory film.
If you’re feeling a bit more casual and don’t have the time to wait, head to Gourmet Burger. While you stroll past the boutiques on Lyndhurst Terrace, don’t forget to peek into Anglo Chinese Florist, one of the most beautiful flower shops. Pick up a bunch of red silk tulips and cut through to Cochrane street for the best casual burger. You will find it through a side entrance next to Dozo sushi bar. Choose from the large menu or if you are an expert, make your own. i would recommend the menu as your own concoction can go awry—my blue cheese did not sit well with chili after all! As you begin walking up, take small detours to enter sheung wan where the food markets showcase a plethora of meat and vegetables that glisten as if someone sprayed the leaves with some fertiliser. it’s also great for authentic Chinese and Thai condiments. (much of it has meat.)
If a craving for something fishy arises, then head down stairs for travelator sushi to Dozo—right below gourmet Burger. Free wifi and large tables make it an ideal business lunch rendezvous or a pit stop before you hit the art galleries on Hollywood road. The Seared Salmon Sashimi is my favourite.
If you like your sushi along with pretty young things on the side, then look no further than Zuma. Keeping with tradition, this fine dining restaurant is located at Hong Kong’s haven of luxury, The Landmark, so hold on to that credit card. Zuma is a contemporary take on Japanese izakaya style of eating and drinking. A dramatic spiral staircase links this duplex restaurant with an outside terrace complete with umbrella tables to protect you from the finicky island weather. Package the dinner with an apple martini at sevva, located next door at Princes Building. every evening at approximately 8 p.m., Hong Kong’s skyline begins to party with lasers and lights. The iFC becomes a veritable disco ball. enjoy quirky desi and south east Asian influenced hors d’oeuvres and let the iFC building mesmerise you as the sevva balcony has the best seat in the house this side of the harbour.
Perhaps you prefer spicy sichuan broth running down your chin instead, then it’s San Xi Lou for you. Consistently voted the best spicy hotpot in Hong Kong, here was where i had that yin-yang experience i waxed lyrical about in the beginning. Plates of thinly sliced beef and pork resembling red lace with white gossamer surrounds the hotpot that bubbles away like a witches cauldron. soon my fellow diners, who were locals, began to throw in fish skin, squid tentacles, julienned radish and leaves of pok choy with joyous abandonment. As it simmered, i was asked to follow them to a condiment buffet, where we conjured up customised dipping sauces by throwing in a little bit of chili, garlic, scallions and many other things i cannot pronounce. in about five minutes we were fishing for our food. grab a local to help you order but if you can’t, our little guide will help.
Keen to remain in Central and soho and need some relief from pungent flavours, then there’s Chez Patrick tucked away in Peel street like a typical Parisian style apartment. This chic white wood-panelled restaurant serves up some traditional French food with a generous wine list.
BLACK TIE’S NOT ALLOWED
For a quick casual dinner sans jacket and closed shoes, head to Elgin Street, a mecca of eateries where you will get a choice of italian, Vietnamese and Thai. No visit of mine is complete without a visit to Lil Siam, tucked away in one corner—it’s become quite an expat institution and their Larb Gai still revs my saliva into a frenzy.
I realise the party animal in you is wondering if Hong Kong ever stops eating so follow Hollywood road, past the large galleries, all the way down Hotel LKF. Cut through it using their stairs and you land smack in the middle of LKF. neon signs, loud music and a flurry of bars and clubs lend it a carnival vibe every night of the week.
Note: it’s cobblestone streets are treacherous to high heels. If you prefer a small pre-party dinner, woo on road has tiny cafes serving Lebanese, and Chinese street fare—so chow down before you party at Dragon I, Prive and Beijing Club, all just around the corner.
THE OTHER SIDE
We must not forget the other Hong Kong across Victoria Harbour, just a hop, swim or a ferry ride away. Begin with tea at the islands oldest and most famed hotel, The Peninsula. Don’t let the racing green rolls royce faze you, mortals are allowed to indulge in this timehonoured tradition of ceremonial afternoon tea under its neoclassical arches with music by the Lobby strings for company. slather a scone with butter and pour yourself a cuppa but leave before they slap a bowtie on you. Step outside and you’ll find yourself on nathan road, a large boulevard that houses everything from Armani to Chungking mansions, a seedy shopping mall that brings the contradictions of HK to light.
Temple Street night market is perfect for those who want an evening of Chinese kitsch, dubious fried pork and chicken noodles. Carnivores should head to Wooloomooloo, down the road from the ferry station. The rib eye is perfect and so is the view as you tuck into creamed spinach. Finish the night off in Aqua Spirit, the super slick clubby bar and restaurant with a staggering view of the most spectacular skyline in the world.