学文网胡同与四合院是北方城市建筑中的“夫妻配”,也可以说是“黄金搭档”,可谓相互依存、相互分割、有机结合。济南也不例外。
济南的四合院既与北京相似,又有所差别,有着属于自己的风格和建筑语言。由于老城依山靠水,且城内泉水众多,济南老城的建筑布局与建筑形式刚柔并济,南北兼得。既有北国建筑的深厚淳朴,又具江南水乡的轻巧灵秀。传统民居多采用典型的四合院布局,青砖或土坯或石砌墙,灰瓦花脊,多以一进院为主,而殷实富户或达官显贵则拥有二进或多进院落。门楼、影壁、建筑雕刻和庭院绿植是四合院建筑中不可或缺的构件。门楼往往是四合院中的一大亮点。它的整体形象、造型尺度都标志着院子主人的身份、社会地位、富裕程度和审美取向。一般而言,平民百姓家的门楼狭小低矮,而达官显贵家的门楼高阔宏大。影壁即古代所谓的萧墙,是四合院中最富装饰的地方。影壁与门楼相呼应,形成一个相辅相成的整体,使院子增加了几分安全感,不至于院门开启时一览无余。济南的影壁大多与厢房的山墙相结合,既依附于山墙,又突出于山墙。精美的雕刻,包括砖雕、木雕和石雕,多见于高质量的四合院的门楼、门罩、影壁、厅堂墙饰等处。雕刻内容以琴棋书画、花草瑞兽为主。特别值得一提的是,荷花形象在济南四合院雕刻中非常多见,体现了济南浓郁的地方特色。人们早就形成在四合院里种树养花的习惯,石榴树在济南民居中最为多见,几乎每家院子都种石榴树,反映了旧时人们“多子多福”的生活愿望。而四合院的大树中,梧桐最为多见,俗话说:“没有梧桐树,引不来金凤凰”,这恐怕是院子的主人对于娶妻生子、阖家幸福的另一种寄托吧。
济南的四合院体量较小,“大宅门”屈指可数。位于鞭指巷的状元府、宽厚所街的金家大院和西青龙街的张公馆算是济南“大宅门”的代表。状元府是清光绪年间新科状元陈冕的府邸。少时陈冕勤奋好学,才艺双全。光绪年间,他一举夺得了殿试的第一名,成为清代第105位状元,也是最年轻的状元。陈冕故居在鞭指巷今9号和11号,两个大院原由八个座西朝东,东西相连的四合院组成。朝廷对陈冕褒扬有加,曾***“状元及第”贴金大匾,刚***时尚存,后被毁。***后这里成为居民大院,一些院子被肢解,一些临时搭建的小房使原来规整的院子看上去拥堵而杂乱。但从建筑布局、阔的门楼、石阶木柱、砖雕石刻来看,可以想象这座“状元府”昔日的风采。
宽厚所街55号院,是1910年历城县知县金有大的宅第。正院前后两进,横列西向三合院两进,共四个院子组成。门楼早已拆除,正院前为东西厢房,北为二层穿堂式楼房,过穿堂楼的后院是由两层楼组成的四合楼院,这在济南很是罕见。四面上下均为木制环廊,中间是天井。门窗为拱形八棱石门柱,拱形门券上为“富贵牡丹”石雕纹样。北楼木制走廊,栏板上有几十幅木刻翠竹***,形态各异。西跨院原有平房四合院和百花园,早已拆建他用。这位县太爷的房子故然气派,但却事先忘了请风水先生看看,房子盖好后才发现,二层楼的屋脊高出了正北不远处的历城县城隍庙,犯了冲,这位县官便一天也没在此住过。
要说济南最奢华、最讲究的四合院非张公馆莫属了。张公馆的主人张怀芝是北洋***府的高官。1917年,北洋***府***段祺瑞任命张怀芝为第二路总司令,分别率***“南征”,与已南下的孙中山为大元帅的非常国会所属的“护国***”激战,结果北洋***在湖南一败涂地,张怀芝只身逃回北京,后被委任了闲职。此后张怀芝辞职回到他曾经任第五镇统制的济南,广招南北工匠,在已购买的西青龙街万竹园旧址上营造私宅,用5年时间,终于建成了这座占地18亩,房舍186间,集江南园林与北方四合院为一体的府宅,也成为山东省内规模最大的私家园林。据说,张怀芝有13房妻妾,所以除西花园和佣人住的房屋外,有13个院落,一房一个院子。其实,后来张怀芝在天津又买了新房,一部分眷属跟他去了天津定居,这张公馆里只有部分小妾和儿女居住。
这里院院相套,泉渠环绕,曲廊相接,小桥勾连,山石点缀其间,并以墙垣漏窗、廊亭、假山来分隔空间,划分景区,给人以曲径通幽和“庭院深深深几许”的神秘感觉。同时,所有的正房都落座在轴线上,颇具王府的气派,并表现出北方园林具有的寓变化于对称之中的特点。
过去的四合院大多每一家一个院子,即所谓独门独院。***后,私人的房产充了公,很多四合院便被重新分配,成了居民大杂院,人口自然也稠密起来。为满足居住需求,这家盖个小伙房,那家垒间储藏室,院子里显得杂乱而满当。但住惯四合院的人却悠然自得,一旦关起了院门,躲进小院成一统,这里便成了温暖的巢,几家老小其乐融融,仿佛与世相隔。城市的剧变似乎离这里很远,他们依然过着平淡、祥和、踏实、舒缓甚至有些慵懒的生活。
无论搬走的和坚守在四合院里的人,每当看到想到阳光照耀的天井、种什么活什么的院子,以及抬头见天、出门见地的那份踏实的感觉,还有那些和睦相处、关爱有加的街坊邻居,对四合院总有一份难以割舍的情怀和乡愁。
The alley and quadrangle courtyard are a couple, which also can be called “golden partner” in northern urban buildings. They are interdependent, divided by each other and organically integrated. Jinan is not an exception.
The quadrangle courtyard of Jinan is similar to but different from that of Beijing. It has its own architectural style. The old city area has waters and mountains and a lot of springs inside it. For this reason, the architectural layouts and forms of old Jinan city are balanced with hardness and softness, combining the features of south and north, so that it possesses the simplicity of north China and exquisiteness of south china. The traditional residential houses adopt the classical layout of quadrangle courtyards, featuring blue bricks, sun-dried mud bricks, stone-made walls and grey tiles and beautifully shaped ridges; the courtyards are mainly single-yards, while rich people or dignified officials usually have two or more.
The gatehouse, screen wall, architectural sculpture and green plants in courtyards are indispensable components of a quadrangle courtyard building. The gatehouse is usually a bright spot for its whole image and appearance symbolizes the host’s position, social status, affluence, and aesthetic tendency. Generally speaking, the gatehouses for common people are low and narrow while that for rich people are high and magnificent. The screen wall is the so called Xiao Qiang in ancient times that was also the most decorated place in the whole quadrangle courtyard. Coordinated with each other, the screen wall and the gatehouse form an interdependent integration, adding a sense of security to some degree through avoiding the commanding view at first glance.
The screen walls of Jinan are mostly combined with the head walls of the wing-houses, dependent on the headwall yet standing out from it. Exquisite carvings on brick, wood or stone, are mostly seen in high-level gatehouses, door covers and screen walls and hall wall decorations. The sculptures are mainly lute-playing, chess, calligraphy and painting as well as flowers, grass and animals. One thing that deserves mention is that the lotus image is commonly seen in the sculptures of quadrangle courtyards, which embodies the strong local flavor of Jinan. People have long been adjusted to planting trees and flowers in their courtyards. And pomegranate trees are commonly seen in Jinan residential houses. Nearly every courtyard is planted with pomegranate trees, bearing the wish of ancient people to have more sons and more blessings. And, of the big trees in the quadrangle courtyards, the most commonly seen are phoenix trees. As the saying goes, “golden phoenix will not be attracted to live in without phoenix tree.” This may bear the hope of of the owners of having a wife and children and being happy forever.
In the past, the quadrangle courtyards were mostly in the form of “one yard for one family”, that is the so-called “single yard - single family”. Afterwards, the courtyards have become the places for mixed living, and the population has become dense subsequently. However, residents being used to living in the courtyards feel comfortable and natural: the courtyard becomes a warm nest if the door is closed. Old or young from several families live in harmony and happiness, just as living a hermit life. The drastic changes in cities have nothing to do with them, who still live a life that is simple, harmonious, steady, slow and a bit lazy.